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Some photos from N.Z. and Australia
04.01.05 (8:23 am)   [edit]
http://photos.yahoo.com/kouleri" title="http://photos.yahoo.com/kouleri" target="_blank"http://photos.yahoo.com/koule...
 
Dublin - Athens (1.3.05 - 17.3.05)
03.26.05 (6:20 am)   [edit]

We arrived in Dublin on Tuesday 1st of March after an exhausting trip from Melbourne through Singapore and Frankfurt. There we were greeted by our dear friends Misa and Martin, who patiently endured our presence at their place for the remainder of our stay in Dublin. The Czech, Greek, Brazilian and Danish alcoholics had dinner the same night, there was so much to say! During the rest of the week we did nothing but meet with friends, eat and drink! It was so nice to see everybody again and we will miss each and everyone so much!


We said our last farewells on Friday 11th of March and "sailed" to England, where we spent the weekend at Northampton with our dear Greek friends, Violetta and Herakles. On Monday we started our big drive to Athens with a stop in Torino, Italy to see our friend Nikos who works for the Torino 2006 winter Olympics. It took us 3 and 1/2 days to get to Greece, so on Thursday 17th of March, 6.00pm we finally arrived at our new home.


Now we are here and we have to get used to being in Greece again, it's just so different from Ireland! I am really glad to be here again though, with our family and friends. We've spent this week unpacking, trying to find a place for everything in our house. We're also catching up with our friends, not too bad a lifestyle :D.


We'll be adding blogs here from time to time, keeping yis (:D) up to date with our new life here in Greece. We'll also upload some pictures as soon as OTE (the greek telecoms company) decides to install the broadband connection I ordered.


Take care!


Pinelopi

 
Alice Springs - Darwin
02.24.05 (5:37 pm)   [edit]

Hey guys! Hope you're all well!


As Vassilis mentioned in his blog entry we are now in Darwin at the Top End of Australia. We did a 2-day tour in Kakadu here, which was quite nice. Unfortunately though because it is the wet season at the moment (i.e. 40+ degrees, extreme humidity and tropical showers) the majority of the important sites are closed off, plus the animals are hiding away to escape from the sun. So we didn't get to see much, we just got the general idea. We did see some vicious crocs (crocodiles) though, among them "Hannibal the Cannibal", 6.7m long, 1.5m wide. I am glad I was watching him from a 2 meter height distance. We also saw sea eagles and kites these amazing, big birds of prey. Some nice waterfalls and aboriginal rock art (this is paintings on rocks :D). It was a nice trip although it was extremely hot and humid. The last day we were rewarded with a nice tropical shower in the evening it was really cool, this is when I realized what they mean by "wet to the bones". I really enjoyed walking under the fierce rain unlike Vassilis who was carrying our bags with the cameras etc in it and was cursing all the way through ha ha!


We reached Darwin on the "legendary Ghan" (short for "Afghan", the Afghan camels they used to have to transport goods and people in central Australia until they were replaced by the train). People say it's an amazing experience, I don't know what's so amazing about it, it's just a train, perhaps this comes from people who have travelled on the "Gold Kangaroo" seats, i.e. luxurious cabins, posh restaurants etc. We travelled in our humble 120 dollars reclining seat :D. The landscape of course is beautiful, although we did not get to see much of it as we travelling overnight. The train stopped in Katherine for 4 hours, really a place in the middle of nowhere, where the hairdresser comes every Thursday and weekends :D.


We travelled together with some very nice people we met in the Uluru-Kings Kanyon-Kata Tjuta tour we did from Alice Springs. I loved this tour, both for the tour itself (people we were with and a really good guide) and the places we visited. To me this is definetely the highlight of our journey in Australia. We had a really good time, slept under the stars in "swags" for 2 nights, did not take a shower for almost 3 days (thankfully we were all so smelly so we couldn't smell how bad it must have been :D), we ate kangaroo and the witchetty grubs Vassilis mentioned, and we did some beautiful hikes in Kings Kanyon and the Olgas. It was really-really great and the cheapest tour in town, Mulga's adventures for only 250 aussie dollars. It is defnetely a place worth visiting in Australia! The flies were indeed relentless as Vassilis mentioned, I looked so hot in my fly net :D. Vassilis of course refused to wear it :D.


I also liked Alice Springs, I thought it is a very special place. This is where the first telegraph station in central Australia was built, we visited that original setting and it felt like a time travel back in late 1800. We also visited the "School of the air" (http://www.assoa.nt.edu.au/" title="http://www.assoa.nt.edu.au/" target="_blank"http://www.assoa.nt.edu.au/), which I found amazing, it is basically a "virtual classroom", a system whereby children that leave in remote areas, cattlestations etc attend school over the radio waves. It was really really cool, I was so impressed and moved.


Tonight we are flying in Melbourne where we will stay for the weekend. On Monday the 28th we embark on our long journey to Dublin and then Athens. I can't believe we are already at the end of our journey :(. We do feel a bit tired but I will miss travelling so much. We're already contemplating our next journey (you get so many ideas by fellow travellers :D). Once you start, you can't stop!


Take care guys! Oh, and by the way, Vassilis goes beserk at the sight of a single, tiny leech! Jumping up and down, screaming etc. How I wish I had a video camera with me :D!


Pinelopi


 

 
Lord of the flies
02.20.05 (6:22 pm)   [edit]

Picture this: It's 10 p.m. in Byron Bay, you were on a bus for 13 hours, you carry 20 kg on your back, it's 35 degrees, you smell like a pig, all accommodation is booked out because there's a market fair the next day and an English girl comes to you and asks: "Do you know where the Cheeky Monkey is?" Do you blame me for suggesting to look up her arse for the cheeky monkey? The funny thing is that this stupid woman was running around in a 20 meters radius and was asking the same people all over again about the bloody monkey. Short memory problem obviously. On top of everything else, it was quite obvious that the people she was asking had only just arrived, checking in at receptions and stuff.
Apparently though we were the only people who didn't go to the Cheeky Monkey. We met Kate, a nice English girl (it's so funny how everybody was telling her that she was a nice English person and how not nice are usually the English tourists) and she was dragged to the bloody cheeky monkey. The main attraction there was that they had the boys and the girls dancing on two separate tables and the aim was to pull a member of the opposite sex to your table. Kate was wondering whether that was civilization.  


Next stop was Airly beach and the Whitsunday Islands. We went on a sailing boat with a skipper that looked just like Keith Richards and 11 of the most boring people in the galaxy ("as long as there are sausages, I'm happy", guess the nationality). We had 45 knots wind, only in the opposite direction, so we couldn'd go anywhere and we spent two days anchored. On the first night everybody got romantic and they decided to sleep on the deck. When they finally shut up, after some drinking and singing stupid songs, the wind and the rain came and they crawled back to their beds. Nobody dared to brave it the second night, hehehe. Anyway, we saw some nice coral, swimming in our stinger suits cause the y have two species of deadly jelly fish there, of course.


And then we experienced the life in the tropics. Rainrainrainrain until we reached Cairns. Flew to Alice Springs, nice e xperience landing when the temperature is 40 degrees, bumpy as hell. We booked a 3 day tour to Ayers Rock and off we went. The night before the tour I got massacred by bed bugs, some very nasty ones that left a trail of bites on my devine body. I know the name in Greek (korios) cause I had made their acquaintance in the army, please translate if you know the English term. On the first day the temperature was 41 degrees. Then we got of the bus and that's when it started. Have you seen pictures of cows in Africa or India with flies in their eye sockets, ears, mouths and everywhere? That's exactly how we were. The flies would go in your ears, up your nose, in your eyes and they are so persistent that they won't budge even when you chase them away. People with glasses get the bonus effect of having flies walking on the inside of their glasses. The highlight was that what I thought as toasted bread at lunch time was actually white bread covered in flies. It's undescribable really, we must have eaten a few flies each. Despite the heat and the flies it was quite interesting though. On the second day we dug up a few fat white worms, called witchetty grubs which we grilled and ate. Funny enough, they don't taste like chicken, they tasted like roast walnuts. As for the toilet experience, aka "the shovel", I just have to show you. Actually we can arrange a demonstration in M&M's garden.


The plan after that was to drive to Melbourne but we couldn't find a relocation (=return a car to the company for 1$/day) so we decided on the fly to go North by train, to Darwin. A small diversion equivalent to the distance Vienna-Athens. We'll do the Kakadu national park there, same camping style and then it's Melbourne and then the 36 hour trip I'm looking for to Dublin.


Vassilis


   

 
N.Zealand - Australia
02.10.05 (9:16 pm)   [edit]

I'm sitting at a computer in Hervey Bay in Australia and the thing is slower than the ones in Laos, great...


First of all I want to thank our Italian friends Stefano and Elisa (whom, after careful planning, we met by chance and at the wrong place. The phone calls to organise this have cost us more than the entire trip) for introducing us to the joys of the free camping and smelly life. But that was OK, we saw some great places while looking for a place to camp. And some great public toilets too. I particularly liked the ExeLoo. Everything is automatic there, from the doors to the soap dispenser and it also self-cleans. The only minor anno yance is that it runs on a timer and after ten minutes an alarm sounds and the door swings open much to the delight of the next user. Believe me, I had nightmares about this.


Other than that, I think I liked the North island in N. Zealand better and not just to disagree with every other person on the planet. It's just that apart from the wild west coast, the rest in the south is a lot like Ireland, which although pretty wasn't a novelty for me. Plus it's full of little towns where the main entertainment options include sheep shearing and grass carting.


The sheep though in N.Z. are picture perfect. They are unebelievably cute and wooly. And some of them have wool that runs down their forehead and they look a bit like Elvis. You sort of understand how Gene Wilder and the Greek guy, Titos Vandis fell in love with that sheep in "Everything you wanted to know about sex". (I know, I'm a very sick and twisted person).  


The best thing with the N. Zealanders is the pronunciation of vowels. They say "i" for "e" and v.v., e.g. yis=yes, sex=six.
At a zoo, the guide was telling us how the eels feed on "did (=dead) animals". There was an English woman there who had to ask 3-4 times "They feed on what?" And the answer every time was "did animals". Hilatious how the native speakers couldn't communicate. BTW, we didn't see the Seven-Eleven store chain in N. Zealand. Small wonder, try it in N.Z. accent.


As mentioned we're in Oz, somewhere on the east coast, just came back from a 3 day safari on the world's biggest sand island. You could pick your way to die there, from the dingos that mauled a boy to death in 2001, to the sharks and the undertow in the sea. To that I would like to add the python that had made his home just behind our tent (kills the mice they said, yeah right) and the venomous spiders that were in abundance where we stayed. No matter what Penelope writes in future blogs, keep in mind that I had to bring her to the toilet cause she was afraid of the dingos (if she writes anything about a leech and me screaming like a little girl, don't believe her either).
Plus, I think she's gone completely mad. She was crossing the chaotic streets in SE Asia like nothing and she won't cross the road until it's green in N.Z. and Oz. Plus, whenever I was driving our car she was always jumpy and afraid that I'd kill us both and now that I was driving a van with the wheel on the wrong side and on the wrong side of the road, she was sleeping. Psycho I tell you, I have to get rid of her before she kills me in my sleep.


Vassilis


    & nbsp;

 
Tongariro N.P. - Christchurch (14.1 - 28.1)
01.29.05 (3:30 pm)   [edit]

Hi guys! Hope you're all well! It's been a while since we updated the travelog, but we have been on the move a lot lately.


We did the Tongariro crossing after all, it was a long, exhausting walk, which took us approximately 8 hours to complete, 17 kms over volcanic terrain mostly and some reaally steep parts. And because I am as fit as a fiddle I had to stop every 5 minutes or so to rest :D. Plus I had Vassilis reminding me constantly how resilient he is despite the fact that he is a smoker :). BTW, he is trying to give up smoking now or rather reduce it and he is doing very well :D. It was a nice walk I am glad we did it, we reached an altitude of almost 2000m. This place was also the setting for "Mordor" in the "Lord of the rings" and you could really see why.


Although we couldn't move the next day we decided to go to Napier, a nice little town full of art deco style buildings. From there to Wellington, New Zealand's capital where we spent 2 days (a bit to much for a small city like this though). Wellington is nicknamed "windy Wellington" and this is so true, it was extremely windy everywhere. We took the ferry from there and crossed the Cook strait to the South Island.


There we went straight to the Abel Tasman N.P. where we met our dear Italian friends, Stefano and Elisa. It was so great to see our friends after such a long time! We did sea kayaking in the Abel Tasman together, which was great. They are useless, could not keep up with the mighty Greeks and were slowing us down all the time. Anyway, what can you do they are our friends after all :). We only stayed together for 2 days which was very little, there was so much to talk about! The guys also introduced us to free camping which is great not only because it's free, but also because you get to camp in some amazing spots near lakes and rivers. We are really thankful to them for this! It was really sad to part, we really enjoyed the company. We moved on to the south of the South Island and the guys went north where they would do a 3 day walk (they are mad) and then on to the North Island again.


So we drove along South Island's west coast, where we saw so many amazing natural wonders. Mount Aspiring, the Milford Sound, you name it. We were a bit unlucky with the famous lake Matheson and the Franz Josef and Fox glaciers as we happened to drive by in the worst possible weather.


New Zealand is an overwhelmingly beautiful country, you have to see it to believe it. You want to keep taking pictures constantly, so you end up driving 100kms in 5 hours instead of just 2 or so (BTW the N.Zealand highways resemble a lot the Irish ones and when I am driving, distances seem almost infinite :)). We camped in some really nice spots with our campervan, we had breakfast, lunch, dinner by lakes, rivers and beaches, it was amazing! We ended up staying for a total of 25 days in N.Z. instead of the originally planned 14 days, and I could easily have spent one more month here. I would love to have done a bit more walking or "tramping" as they call it here, but with such limited time we were rushing from one place to the other trying to see as much as we could, so we ended up spending a lot of time driving. But still, N.Z. is a great place, it's almost a must-see-at-least-once-in -your-our-lifetime :).


Our final stop was in Christchurch, South Island's biggest city and a very English-looking one too. We dropped the campervan there and boarded the plane to Sydney where we are at the moment. Sydney is an amazing city but more on that in our next entry :D.


Take care!


Pinelopi 

 
4 million people, 40 million sheep
01.16.05 (10:15 pm)   [edit]

NOTE: we are NOT responsible for the bush fires in N. Zealand, as somebody suggested. We were NOT responsible for the tsunami either.


The true story.


Singapore was OK. We spent 2 nights there and changed 3 rooms because the bloody air conditioning was making a terrible boiling noise that kept us up all night. And the girls there all look exactly like the psychotic Japanese girl with the ball and chain in "Kill Bill 1" - scary stuff.
We landed in N. Zealand and the first impression was that it looks a lot like Ireland, only the people here have noticed that it rains and most walkways are covered. Quite handy too cause the weather was crap.
We had several options of transport and of course we went for the most expensive one. We hired a camper van and we got the filthiest and oldest ever (never use Ezy Cars guys, they didn't deliver according to the agreement), but we didn't have a choice. The seat covers were shining with a kind of oily dirt. We washed them of course, but the laundry wouldn't do a hot wash so they weren't clean the first time. Then we washed them again but I forgot to push the button on the dryer and then they didn't have time to dry and these seat covers are our bed covers basically, so you can imagine our night. Plus the van feels like driving a lorry. It took me 300 km to switch to fourth gear, no kidding. I thought I was bad until Penelope took the wheel. The day time stood still. The kilometers became light years, the hours became aeons (in fairness, she drove through a very demanding bit, with killer bents and the sun in her eyes and me in the passenger seat and she did very well).



And then you have the holiday parks. The first one we went to looked quite OK. My first job was to check the toilets. There were 30 toilets, another 30 showers and the place was empty, so you could see the smile on my face. I thought all of them must be like this and then we arrived at the second one which had 2 toilets, 2 showers and the place was packed. For some funny reason whenever you check out the toilet, it's free but when you really need it, it's occupi ed. My work-around is to use the facilities at around 2 a.m. 



And then there is also the sadistic devices they have in the holiday parks. Like the shower that operates with coins, 20 c for 5 minutes. In my case it was 20 c for 1.5 minutes. Nothing beats the feeling when you turn on the hot water tap and nothing happens.
I also like the shower that operates with a dial sort of thing that only turns in one direction in this order: OFF-Cold-Warm-Hot-OFF. So, if you want warm water, you first get the cold surprise and when you turn it off you lose your skin from the boiling water. Repeat as many times as required.
My favourite though is the one that cuts the toilet paper. This satanic invention limits the paper and at the moment of truth you are left basically with something the size of a post stamp. 
And when we thought we had seen everything we ended up in a holiday park that's still under construction and is just a car park. In the morning we were woken up by the builders operating the bobcat right next to our van. Nice.  


Vassilis


 

 
Auckland - Lake Taupo (4.1 - 13.1)
01.12.05 (6:42 pm)   [edit]

Hi guys! N. Zealand is an extremely beautiful country, we are sooo impressed! Loads of green, varied scenery, so many things to do. The weather has been very good the last few days as well, which is great as it reveals this unbelievably blue sky! We are really really impressed!


We stayed 4 days in Auckland in particularly bad weather (very similar to the Irish "summer"), trying to figure out how to move around N.Z.. We opted for a campervan in the end, we definetely did not get the best deal we could, but everything seems to be booked out, so we had to settle with what we got at the price we got it. We thought it would be a nice experience and it is. It gets a bit of getting used to driving this relatively big vehicle, but Vassilis seems to have gotten the hang of it by now :). I only drove it today for the first time and I am sure everyone driving behind us did not appreciate it at all :).


We started of from the Bay of Islands at the north east side of North Island, a beautiful bay with islands as the name suggests :) where we went for a nice cruise. We then drove to the north-west side and visited the largest and oldest Kauri (gum) trees, they are really-really huge! As the L.P. guide says you have to see it to believe it :). We also did sandboarding on a beach with steep sand dunes. That was fantastic! You basically place your upper body on a boogie board and of you go, it was great fun! It was us and a couple of 10 year olds that where showing us how to do it he he!


We then started our descent to the central part of the north island, to a place called Rotorua. The area there is filled with thermal pools, mud pools and so on. There I had one of the most fantastic experiences of my life so far: white water rafting, and moreover going over a 7 meter high waterfall! It was INCREDIBLE, there are no words to describe the feeling. I was of course scared s**less until such time as we actually went over the waterfall, but it was of course much easier than I thought and sooo much fun! We also watched a Maori concert and had Maori dinner called hangi at the same evening. The Maori concert was fantastic, they also did the war dance called "haka" and it was sooo funny!


Today we drove past a place called Wai-o-Topu where walked among some mud pools & thermal pools and witnessed "Lady Knox" geyser's erruption. We are now in Lake Taupo, a beautiful big lake, the weather is great outside and Vassilis can't wait to go for a swim in it.


Living in the campervan is relatively easy, it's a bit cramped but we are only in it for the night really. It has a fridge and a kitchen, so we can store and cook food. We usually use the kitchen facilities of the holiday parks though. As you would expect and because campervans are so popular here in N.Z., almost everywhere you go there is a holiday park as they call them, with communal kitchen, toilets, showers etc where you can spend the night. A lot of them are also in really nice spots. The one we are staying today for example is right beside the lake.


In general people here think it's cool and wicked that we come from Greece, because apparently they do not see that many Greek tourists. That makes us feel a bit proud :). N.Zealanders are very friendly and they seem to know and love their country. They are eager to tell you which places to visit and there are so many of them! Also, they seem to be a rather suicidal nation and they have invented some of the most masochistic adventure sports ever, for example there's one called "Zorbing" where you enter a huge plastic ball filled with water and then they push you off a hill. Excuse me? :)


Tomorrow we will attempt to hike the Tongariro crossing, we'll see how the weather looks like and if we feel like it in general. It is a 7-8 hours walk after all :).


I will try to upload some photos next time, yahoo photos does not seem to work at the moment :(.


Pine.

 
Malaysia - Singapore (25.12.04 - 3.1.05)
01.02.05 (1:38 am)   [edit]

Dear all, we would first like to thank you all for your interest in our well-being! Thank you very much it is very moving! We are still aliving and kicking (just as you thought you got rid of us :D). Secondly we would like to wish you all a very Happy New Year, make sure you enjoy it as much as you can!


When the earthquake/tsunami hit we were on the island of Penang in Malaysia. We did feel the earthquake but it was mild in that area. We did not realize what had happened until Vicky my lovely friend called to make sure we are OK. In general, due to the lack of TV throughout our stay in Malaysia we were not fully aware of what was really going on. Terrible tragedy. Some of the places in Krabi in Thailand we had just been to, are now gone as we found out, it's crazy :(.


In Malaysia we stayed in a hut in the jungle, we visited Kuala Lumpur with its huge Petronas twin towers, we stayed in a lake retreat called Suka Suka (a small island in a lake) and finally visited the pictursque little town of Melacca (to all our Greek friends this is pronounced "malaka", he he). Malaysia in an amazingly multicultural country where Chinese, Indians and Malaysians of course blend together in a fascinating way. You really don't know where you are at times :).


We are now in Singapore, an extremely clean and "posh" city! Chewing gum is not allowed he he, you get fined! Everything is of course much more expensive than the rest of the SE Asian countries we visited, but still cheaper than Europe. We are slowly getting used to more expensive accommodation and food :).


We are leaving tomorrow for N.Zealand and we'll write more from there!


We uploaded some more pictures at http://photos.yahoo.com/kouleri" title="http://photos.yahoo.com/kouleri" target="_blank"http://photos.yahoo.com/koule....


Pinelopi

 
Thailand - Krabi
12.24.04 (1:02 am)   [edit]

I will only write this today. Penelope was attacked by monkeys on the beach today. The funniest thing I've ever seen, can't really describe it. One of them tried to steal her trousers too.


Happy Xmas to everybody again, hope you all have a brilliant time.


 

 
Last impressions froms SE Asia
12.21.04 (11:31 pm)   [edit]
We are in Thailand now but since we haven't had a chance to write for some time I'll start with the last days in Cambodia.
On the way to Thailand we met an amazing lady who's a volunteer in Vietnam. The best thing was that when I started complaining about all the TV programmes and karaoke singing in the bus she said: well, I'm deaf, so whenever they were loud, I switched off the hearing aid! Ingenious!
The harassment from the vendors didn't stop in Cambodia, and in order to start the selling interaction the first question you get is where you're from. Pinelopi had the brilliant idea to say that we're from Albania. So we did, but they understood Albany, USA. Then she had another great idea (and then she fainted, two great ideas in such a short time was too much for the poor thing): she suggested we say that we're from Korea! Somehow they got suspicious though and they asked us to speak Korean so that didn't work great either.
In Siem Reap we stayed at a guest house that must have been the noisiest place in the universe. First night was in a room where the roof wasn't exactly attached to the walls, there were huge gaps. I was sure that it must be infested with rats and stuff and I was probably right cause when we got back in the evening we saw traces of something. Anyway, the next day we changed rooms. It seems though that there was a music school in the vicinity and the classes started at 5:00 a.m. It only lasted until 8:00 though, just about the time when you get up anyway. The last day was a Saturday and we were hoping that there's no school on weekends. Apparently though on Saturdays they have gong lessons (no kidding). Plus there was some religious thing going on loudspeakers.
Off to Thailand then where we met with the group for the Thailand-Malaysia tour. Before that though I managed to leave our credit card in the ATM. And it's not my fault at all cause they have this stupid system where first you get the money, then the receipt and then the credit card. Well, I skipped step 3.
Night train to Phun Phin (lots of cockroaches) and then we arrived at a guest house in Khao Sok, in the jungle. Remember how we changed rooms in Cambodia because there were gaps in the walls? This time we stayed in a hut, almost no walls. The thing was open from all sides, just a fragile mosquito net separating you from rats, spiders and monkeys. Pinelopi of course thought it was cool. No major incidents though except from an unknown creature that had dinner and took a major dump on our porch on both nights. And jungle noises. Plus we were at the end of electricity and the lights were as dim as they can get. Naturally, and just because it's me, I went barefoot in the room and I stepped on a frog. It took about two hours to get the damn thing out of the room. Of course if my suggestion to kill the bastard was taken on board it would have been much quicker.
We also visited the national park there where there's supposedly the biggest flower in the world (80 cm diameter) that blooms only once a year and for only four days, but we didn't see it. That's OK though, we'll probably create some fakes, you know, paper flowers, a bit exagerated to cover the horizon etc.
Now we're in Ao Nang, Thailand, a beach resort and everything looks OK. Tomorrow will go snorkelling close to the islands where they filmed "The beach" (we're not going to the actual spot cause I hate Leonardo Di Crapio and the movie).

Happy Xmas everybody.

Vassilis
 
Just some comments
12.16.04 (7:00 pm)   [edit]

Just to answer some questions we got:


No, we haven't tried domestic animals. There were dog meat restaurants in Vietnam but we didn't go. I was also offered by street vendors lovely crunchy crickets and juicy black spiders (you know, the ones that explode in a creamy surprise in your mouth). You can guess whether I tried or not (although I know some Spanish people who would).
Vietnamese fanny tastes great though, I really enjoyed it (Fanny is an ice cream brand, perverts).  


No, we don't wear local clothes either. Penelope bought something (actually a lot of things) here, but so far I haven't seen any locals wearing them and all foreign women have bought the same. Does it qualify as "local clothes"?  &nbs p;


My cousin was writing that at our age we only go to places with a plug for the blow dryer. In this area you're lucky if there's a wall in the first place.


Yesterday we met some Cambodian 6 year old girls who sold us some small stuff. Those poor girls were so clever that it seems such a waste of potential that they can't have a proper education. At their age I doubt that I was even able to speak yet, let alone hold an intelligent conversation. And their English was a gazillion times better than some managers' in MS who have spent 15 years in the States. And don't even get me started with the IQ, it doesn't even begin to compare, it's so unfair. At the end they even gave us a couple of the braceletes they were selling for free. I was more impressed by these girls than by the temples.  


Vassilis


PS: More photos added http://photos.yahoo.com/koule...

 
Random facts
12.14.04 (3:06 am)   [edit]

- There is MTV Asia in case you were wondering. They play the same stupid R&B music, with the same video clips: guy dressed like a pimp in white furs and girls shaking their bums - only with Asian features.


- Quick quiz 1) Q: What is more annoying than 15 hours on a bus with Thai stand up comedy on TV? A: 9 hours on a Laos bus with a woman with a high pitched voice talking non-stop to the driver. (Extra credits if you can guess how long will it take before the driver gets distracted and drives off a cliff).


- Quick quiz 2) Q: What is even more annoying than the above? A: 7 hours on a Cambodian bus blasting local hits on the TV and the Cambodian passengers singing along passionately karaoke style.


- real estate business in Vietnam. Picture available as well. To let: Luxurious cottage&nb sp;on the lake with attached storage space for the fish. High quality sturdy styrofoam, pack-n-go constructi on, you don't like the neighbours, just sail somewhere else. Ideal for kids, they learn to swim fast or they die. Ample parking for the boat. NTL ready. (Yacht in photo extra).


Some very few photos finally added at http://photos.yahoo.com/kouleri" title="http://photos.yahoo.com/kouleri" target="_blank"http://photos.yahoo.com/koule... (Laos, Vietnam)

 
Hoi An - Saigon - Mekong Delta - Phnom Penh (4.12 - 13.12)
12.13.04 (2:18 am)   [edit]
Today is Vassilis's birthday! (not disclosing how old he is :)). He spent it in Phnom Penh at the back of a tuk-tuk most of the time that we hired to take us to the most important sites in the city. We visited the S-21 former Khmer Rouge prison and the Killing Fields where the same regime used to murder the "low-class" prisoners of S-21, almost 2 million Cambodeans died during that period. Here we witnessed the human paranoia in all its glory. We did not feel like taking pictures. What of? The rest of the day was more uplifting, we visited the Royal Palace which was really spectacular and Wat Phnom (a temple on a hill). Phnom Penh is another of these weird South East Asian cities with some great looking tarmac boulevards and buildings and all the side streets being dirtroads hosting all the poor people trying to make a living. We have only been 1 and a half days here in Cambodia, but people here seem nice and friendly and they smile a lot. I like it so far. Tomorrow we are leaving for Siem Reap where we will visit Angkor Wat and I can't wait.

We reached Phnom Penh via a 2-day, 1-night bus and boat trip across the Mekong Delta, which was a really nice experience! We were crusing between villages with houses by the river, all the children playing in the water and waving at us like crazy, the more you waved the more they were jumping around, up and down. We even got "mooned" by a little one he he! It was a really great experience, so uplifting!

We boarded the bus to the Mekong Delta in Saigon (for the South Vietnamese) or Ho Chi Minh City/HCMC (for the North Vietnamese :)). We only stayed in Saigon for 2 days and did not get to see a lot. It is a huge huge city, with loads of highrises, huge posh hotels (I wonder who stays in them) and of course a lot of poor people and houses everywhere else. The traffic here is of course even crazier than Hanoi, but now we knew the trick, so we did not have major problems crossing the streets :). While in Saigon we also visited the Cu Chi tunnels, an intricate network of narrow tunnels at different depths where the Viet Cong used to hide during the American/Vietnam war and Americans could not find them. The tunnels'length is about 200km but of course only 30 meters of it are open to the public. They have even widened them for the tourists he he, and they are still tiny so imagine! Of course I did not get in, only Vassilis did :). We also visited the War Remnants Museum in Saigon, which although too propagandistic and one-sided, just makes you realize even more so, that there is never ever ever a reason for war. Never.

Along with Halong Bay, Hoi An, the place we were before Saigon is definetely one of the highlights of Vietnam. It is a picturesque, quiet little town where we stayed for 4 days. It is full of tailor shops or clothes shops as they call them, that are able to sew anything for you, absolutely anything. We had some clothes made at the place that our dear Czech friends recommended for very little money and they were really nice! We also rent bicycles and went to a nearby beach and although the weather was a bit cold, it was really great sitting by the sea, sipping nice Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk and watching the big South China Sea waves!

One of the nicest things in this/this kind of trip is that you meet travellers from different countries that usually follow similar itineraries. You exchange information, opinions, experiences, and some of them you meet again in another place a few days later! It is really fun and interesting!

While in Vietnam, we both had the impression that only women work in this country. This was confirmed by a Vietnamese tour guide and a N.Zealand lady who has been working for 3 years as a volunteer in Vietnam (incredible person). Yes, it is true! In general, mostly women work and bring money to the family, incredible! Plus the N.Zealand lady told us that in general they do not work as much as they seem to he he. Only as much as they have to (which is not all that bad :)). I find the general situation and politics in Vietnam a little bit crazy and nonsensical, and I am just afraid that trouble there is not over yet.

Next update from either Siem Reap of Bangkok. Keep in touch! :)

Pinelopi
 
How much I hate SE Asia
12.04.04 (8:05 pm)   [edit]

I have travelled on jam-packed buses for days on end, I have eaten things beyond any description, I have hallucinated to the smell of disgusting feet/bums/armpits, I have slept in beds crawling with creatures that my brain in an effort to keep me sane chose to forget, I have brushed my teeth with sewage water. Have I redeemed myself yet? Can I go home now? Please?
It's not that I don't find this trip interesting, it's only that I don't like the things I see. The good points so far in Laos and Vietnam is the food/fruit and coffee/juices. But there wasn't really anything that you wouldn't like to miss in Laos. Luang Prabang was OK, but nothing spectacular. Phonsavan is a waste of space. We missed Vientiane though and I don't have the complete picture.
Hanoi is an extremely noisy and filthy place, with people who live, eat, urinate, pick their toes constantly and sleep on the exact same spot on the street and there's nothing to see there either. Even if you go to the best and up-market looking restaurant and you get to see the kitchen, you realise that they cook your meal on the same rat infested floor (flattened soil basically) as out on the streets. And there's probably a child peeing next to your food. The food is great though probably just because of all these spices. In one "restaurant" I had the stupid idea to go to the toilet. The toilet was next to the kitchen, where a dog was leicking a pan that was lying on the ground amongst spilled remains of food (to be recycled as suppose). When tried to flush the toilet (just a bucket of course), I realised that the toilet bowl was leaking al over the floor and into the kitchen. Plus a woman opened the door (curtain) and emptied a bucket of dirty water on my feet.  
Ordering food is sometimes a big adventure as well. When you order mackerel for example, you end up with something completely alien and then you realise that are several possibilities:
1. The mackerel in Vietnam is different than the one you know
2. The mackerel is the same but they ran out and they brought you any fish they had
3. The translator made a mistake (and actually they meant snake).
Additionally, they prepare one order after the other and they bring them to the table when they are ready. So you either wait for 15 minutes until your meal is cold in order to eat with your company, or everybody eats alone.


And that would still be OK if you weren't hassled every 3 nanoseconds by somebody going "ouououououou" or "buy-buy" or sticking a banana/bag/map/shoe/any-k ind-of-shit-you-could-pos sibly-imagine under your nose. Our friends told us that you just say "thanks no" and it's OK. BLOODY LIARS! It's not. People follow you even after 10 "thanks nos". On a boat cruise, I sat on a bench to relax and enjoy Halong Bay and a girl wanted to sell me pearls. First she showed me photos of real pearls and then she brought out the plastic marbles on a string and for ten (10) frigging minutes she was sitting next to me saying "buy, very cheap, buy, very cheap, buy, very cheap". I didn't mind at all sitting for almost two hours in Vinh with some schoolkids who wanted to see the guide and were asking for the English words fo this and that. But nobody really warns  you enough about the harassment. But imagine carrying 20 kilos, both hands full, ready to board a boat through a dodgy plank and somebody jumps in front of insisting that you buy the bloody water. With what, the third arm? Or trying to take a picture and suddenly in the viefinder you see somebody's ugly face. They don't care if your busy, tired or even intimate with somebody.
And that would still be OKish, if everybody wasn't trying to rip you off. We met some lovely people who offered us fruit and stuff but they were all Vietnamese living abroad, either France or the States. I think that 80% of the people you meet as a tourist are trying to rip you off. And the funny thing is that they prefer not to make a sale instead of getting a fair price. Once Penelope wanted to buy some corn. Two Vienamese girls had just bought some and we were waiting to see how much they would pay for it. The vendor told them apparently to wait and she quoted a ridiculous price. Same with the cigarettes that have a set price (I think). Some people try to sell them for more and when you explain that the vendor next door sells them for the standard price they prefer to loose the customer. You are far better off in the places where the locals go, better quality and better prices (OK, they stare at you but that's fine).
Plus they'll con you with every chance they get. We got hustled twice already (and about the same exact thing, are we thick or what?). We bought train tickets to Hue at the hotel and for 3 days they were telling us they had booked them but they didn't have them. Apart from the fact that I was getting worried that we'll be stranded in Hanoi, we found out that of course they had the tickets all this time, but they only gave them to us when we were boarding the train so that we didn't have a chance to see they had overcharged us 20 dollars. I even gave the guy who brought us there a tip, yes, yes, laugh with the Greek retard.
And this thing about saving face that we heard so much about is a joke. They told me that you'll get further by smiling than by getting upset. I had been smiling like an idiot for 3 days in Hanoi and nobody was smiling back. I found out though that when you raise your voice (and it happens a lot lately) they burst into a hysterical, hyena-like laughter. And that's saving face for you.
Plus, they sleep everywhere, any time. In the internet cafe in Hanoi, the owner was sleeping behind his desk while we were online. On the floor I mean.
And I wouldn't mind any of the above too much either if there was some culture and colour. But nothing is too old or very nice or historic or anything. In Laos and Vietnam the oldest sites are 200 years old. Even the US a have longer history that that (OK, they bombed everything and partly that's why nothing remains.) But it's mad to call a city that was built in 1883 "ancient". Come on, please.
I'm really sorry if I'm offending anybody, but these people, although by no means stupid, need another 50 years to become human. At least. And everything I wrote is absolutely accurate and not just my opinion, you see it in other people's comments too. I even consider sending some of our experiences to Lonely Planet although I don't want to contribute for free. But I just feel people have to be warned and then they can decide whether to visit or not.


Hanoi and Hue were bad but Hoi An is quite pleasant. Stand by for some nice comments for a change.


P.S. Did I mention that the food is good?


 

 
Vietnamese English - English
12.04.04 (12:10 am)   [edit]
chee = three

coconachee = coconut trees

big but = (depending on context) big butt or big bus

svov = twelve

ni = nice

vey ni = the end is nigh (?)

fi dolla = cost of room in Hue
 
Hanoi - Halong Bay - Hue (27.11 - 3.12)
12.02.04 (11:30 pm)   [edit]
Hanoi is just a crazy city! Everybody beeps the horn for absolutely no reason most of the time (perhaps the Greek taxi drivers are Vietnamese :)), they drive like mad and everything they've ever told you about how difficult is to cross the streets is true! In the end I think we found the way, just keep a steady pace and they drive around you. It's absolute madness but also extremely interesting to see how the traffic just flows and no accidents happen. We spent 3 days here just wandering around, eating and drinking coffee in pure Vietnamese coffee shops in true Greek fashion :). Coffee here is the same as Laos and it is excellent, one of our favorites in SE Asia so far. I also visited the Hoa Lo prison, where Vietnamese kept American pilots as prisoners of war, some stayed there for 10years. They have 2 rooms with pictures and articles and other artifacts trying to convince how well they treated the Americans while imprisoned.

In most parts of Hanoi people practically live on the sidewalks, they eat there, have their businesses there, everything. Those with a proper "shop" also sleep in it at night. It was a truly amazing situation, like nothing we've seen before. People in Cuba are equally poor if not more but do not live like this. We were really amazed. The weather has been a bit bad as well, it has been raining all this time (apparently it is the raining season now in North Vietnam, they even had a major flood a few days before we arrived), which makes the whole sight even worse.

After Hanoi we went to Halong Bay for 2 days. This was truly an amazing place. Thousands of small rock-like islands spread accross a bay, it is really magnificent. We took loads of pictures there.

After coming back to Hanoi from Halong Bay we took an overnight train to Hue, the "ancient" capital of Vietnam. It is so funny that everything that's 200 years old here is "ancient". In Hue we're staying at the same place that our Czech friends did (guys it's great, the old couple that own the place are sooo funny!) for 5 dollars a night!! Today we did a tour to some major attractions around Hue with motorbike which was very nice. We visited some "ancient" emperor tombs and a Buddhist monks university, we saw them praying there as well, very interesting!

Tomorrow we'll take a bus to Hoi An, a small town in central west Vietnam, where we will stay for 3-4 days. Next update from there!

And to satisfy my crazy brother in law's curiosity, yes we do eat a lot of rice and noodleshere. I have to say that sometimes I do get fed up with the Asian food, but you can always find a place with western-like food, so you can take a break. We have not eaten dog yet and we do not intend to :). We have our clothes washed more or less once a week so far, and we try to bathe once a day :). This does not always work however especially when we are travelling, you do not want to be near is those days :). Vassilis has taken some pictures of my filthy feet after our bus trip from Laos to Vietnam, they will be published once we manage to find a place with USB. It seems that USB has not reached Laos or Vietnam yet. Vassilis's backpack is a big mystery. He is supposed to have less stuff than I do and yet it is extremely heavy. I have to have a look one day and see what on earth he has in there!! Also, it is a total mess and I can't understand how he finds his things in it! :D

In general, everything we've seen so far is truly amazing, beyond description. There is so much poverty, you cannot imagine. And I am sure Vietnam or Laos are not the poorest countries on earth. People live in unimaginable conditions and I keep wondering if they realize this fact. As a tourist you do have to be careful of the few nast people that try to rip you off in any way they can, give you fake money (thankfully we have not been victims of that yet :)) etc. Which is bad as it creates a bad image for the country. In general however I think that normal, non-tourist-related people here are nice and generous. The whole experience so far has been great and definetely a major culture shock! :)

Thank you for all the comments so far it is great fun reading them!

Pinelopi
 
The true story
11.26.04 (8:37 pm)   [edit]
mud mud mud mud mud mud was that a patch of asphalt? ooops too late mud mudmud mud mud mud ...
 
Phonsavanh - Hanoi (24.11 - 27.11)
11.26.04 (8:32 pm)   [edit]

Dear all hello again! We've been on the road so many hours during these last few days that it feels we've been travelling for ages although we're only on our second week. We left you at Luang Prabang with our last blog. We stayed there for 2 1/2 days and enjoyed it greatly. Last Wednesday we took a bus to Phonsavanh a small town central-north west of Laos. The bus ride was nice we had great weather and could enjoy the really fascinating landscape. The road was a bit winding and scary at times but, unlike others we refrained from Lao-lao the previous day :-). As you would expect the bus was packed with travellers but also a lot of Lao people sitting everywhere! Phonsavanh itself is probably an ugly small city, nothing to do. The next day we did a most bizzare tour to the nearby "Plan of Jars", 3 fields with sandstone, huge jars, that nobody knows how old they are or how they ended up there. According to the guide, the chief Lao archaeologist is studying at the moment in Australia for an advanced degree so he can research and explain this jars phenomena, he he! We also went to a village where a Lao wedding was taking place. We drank so much Lao-lao I barely remember anything from the rest of the evening :-) These Lao people will not take no for an answer!


Early next day (5.30am) and with a bit of a hangover we set off for Vietnam with a "V.I.P." bus. One of the most bizzare, shocking and exhausting experiences ever! "V.I.P." bus means they put your luggage inside the bus, they stack them on the back seats, instead of on top of the bus like the "public" bus we took for Phonsavanh, it's hillarious! Apart from our luggage the bus was packed again with a few foreign travellers and loads of Lao people again sitting everywhere, carrying all sorts of stuff with them. Plus, they spit everywhere, inside/outside, all the time! Anyway, we had our seats so we were OK, but I was feeling a bit sorry for them as they had paid the same ticket and they had to sit on the floor or who knows where. The weather was (and still is) a bit bad, it was raining all day, so the bus took a long time to reach the Lao-Vietnam border (a new border opening at Nam Can). When we finally made it there it took us about 2 hours to clear immigration in Lao and Vietnam. Did Lao first, into the bus, 10 meters ahead stopped again, out of the bus again to do the Vietnam immigration he he! This was quite an experience, the Vietnamese were sending us through a muddy road to customs and then back again to get stamps and what not. They're quite intimmidating as well. And of course they did not know that Greece and Hellenic Republic (as it stands on the passport) is the same thing, so it took us a while to explain. When all of this was finally over we set off again for one of the most mortifying rides of my life. 1200km altitude, muddy and narrow roads, a jam-packed bus, it was reaaaallllyyy scary! After 7 hours we reached a small village where we took another bus to Hanoi. This bus ride was OK, during the night, you couldn't see too much and the roads were a bit better. In the village we were attacked by locals that were trying to practice their English, they even brought their English-Vietnamese books haha! We reached Hanoi at 5.30 this morning and now we are completely wrecked. The wholel trip lasted exactly 24 hours non-stop!


More on Hanoi and Vietnam in our next blog!


Pinelopi


PS: The funniest thing ever is that from Bangkok to the most isolated village in Lao, G-l-eece has gained international respect and recognition by becoming football no.1 Eulope :-) !!

 
Very short Lao dictionary
11.26.04 (8:02 pm)   [edit]

aaah flom gleece = oh, you come from Greece!


belao = Beer Lao


blooleady? = have you got a room already?

 
The true story
11.23.04 (3:08 am)   [edit]

Spent 10 hours in the plane, Pinelopi slept for 9.5 hours. I didn't, somebody had to be able to fly the damn thing in case the pilot died.
Arrived in Bangkok and spent the night watching the very interesting Thai TV. These people have a knack for midgets, in every show there are a couple of dwarfs doing funny (I presume) stuff. And deformed people in general: I was watching something with a girl who set off to meet a boyfriend and on the way she met a guy who basically was only a torso and an arm (really, no special effects). He helped her find the boyfriend and when he begged for her love (or money, I'm not sure about the details) she knocked him over, the torso-guy took a few rolls on the ground and then he stood on his undeveloped legs (basically toes coming out of his torso) and wept. Weird stuff!
My dear friends and seasoned travellers told me to try the food from the vendors. Bought two of something which I thought it was chicken and tasted something between liver and fish. Plus I think I saw salmonela jump up and say "Hallo". Lovely!
15 hours on a bus to Chiang Kong watching Thai TV again, stand-up comedy, a couple of midgets there as well. Have to admit the roads are impecable and the drivers take turns, one sleeping in the back, the other driving. In 15 hours in Ireland you barely reach Cork.

Countless hours on boat to Pakbeng.
Arrived to the worst shithole on earth, this place is unreal. From all the ugly and disgusting "guesthouses" we chose the one that are no words to describe. The room was already occupied by a spider around half a kilo. Pinelopi slept for 8 straight hours. It was too hot for me. And then I was freezing. I used the duvet that was so heavy that I woke up in the middle of the night with my big toe completely numb. I freaked out cause I seriously thought that something had bitten off my toe and ran away with it. Anyway, not tooooo bad.
Luang Prabang is OK. Only the lovely guesthouse is miles from anything and full of black mosquitos. The food is very good though, although after two days we discovered that we were paying triple the price we could have.
2 months and 25 days to go.
 
Dublin - Bangkok - Luang Prabang (17.11 - 23.11)
11.23.04 (2:43 am)   [edit]
Hi all! It took us a while to post our first "real" blog as we were on the road most of the time and we couldn't access our blog yesterday, but here we are!

After an uneventful flight with Qantas from Dublin to Bangkok via London we stayed in Bangkok for one night in a pretty weird multistorey hotel. The next day we took an overnight bus to Chiang Khong, a village at the border with Laos. We were the only foreigners in the bus and everybody was looking at us with amazement :-). We were also the last to get out of the bus as noone else was going all the way to Chiang Khong as it seems :-). The journey took 15 hours instead of 13 but we managed to make it in time for the slow boat to Luang Prabang. We arrived in Chiang Khong, took a tuk-tuk to the immigration office and ferry crossing point, we had our passports stamped and did the 2 minute boat ride accross the Mekong from Chiang Khong in Thailand to Huay Xai in Laos. There we went to the immigration office to get our visas on arrival issued and we also bought the ticket for the slow boat to Luang Prabang. We boarded the slow boat together with another 30 or so travellers and we were on our way to Luang Prabang a trip that lasted 2 days and 1 night. We stayed overnight in Pakbeng, a tiny village in Laos, where we had our first shock with a room that seemed dreadful in the beginning but it was OK in the end (the mother of all spiders in the bathroom etc :-) ). The next morning we took off for the 2nd and last day of the trip to L.P. A French guy on the boat arranged for it to stop at the Pak Ou caves, two caves with loads and loads of Buddhas in all sizes and postures! Finally at around 5pm on Sunday evening we arrived in L.P. We went straight to the place where Micha & Martin stayed on their visit. It's a nice place guys indeed! :-) For 2 days now we are just wandering around visiting the different Wats (temples) around the city and sampling the really nice food and e x c e l l e n t Lao coffee. We just sent some back home :-). Today we also rent a bicycle and did a nice tour in the city, by the Mekong. Luang Prabang is a really nice and laid back place, we like it a lot! However we already have to face the first glitch in our trip: we cannot go to Vientiane as we were planning to, because there is an all-Asian conference going on at the moment, so they do not allow any tourists in the city until the 2nd of December! Crazy! So, we will go to Phonsavan instead, another small village in Laos, where we will also visit the "Plain of Jars" and then make our way to Vietnam by bus from there. More on this in our next blog :-).

Read Vassilis' version in the next blog :-)

Pinelopi :D

PS: We will hopefully have some photos next time, USB is not working on any PC in this Internet cafe :-(
 
Pinelopi's last day at work..
11.12.04 (7:09 am)   [edit]

Today was my last day at work, it really feels strange. My empty desk, everybody saying goodbye. I've enjoyed working there so much. We have made some great friends and we will hopefully keep in touch!


For the time being we have to worry about how much stuff you can fit in a 50 litre backpack! :)


Pinelopi


 

 
This is our blog!
10.30.04 (11:18 am)   [edit]

So this is it! This is our blog. We will be posting our experiences from our journey as often as we can, and we will be very anxious to read news and comments from our friends! Use the "view/add" beneath the blog entry to send a comment or the "Send A Private Message" link on the left to send a private message. You can also use the "Bot This Blog" link on the left pane to receive e-mail notifications whenever we post a new blog entry.


Our journey begins in Bangkok where we arrive on the 18th of November. We are only staying there for one night. Then on a bus & slow boat to Laos for a week, by bus to Vietnam for two weeks by boat on the Mekong to Cambodia for one week. We fly back to Bangkok where we will meet the Intrepid group for a guided excursion across the Thailand - Malaysia leg all the way to Singapore. From there to N.Zealand where we might also meet our Italian friends Stefano & Elisa and lastly Australia for more or less a month. Well, that's the plan anyway :D.


After coming back to Dublin we will take our car and drive through Europe to Greece, our final destination... for the time being :lol:.


We have 18 days to go and still sooo many things to do!


--Pinelopi


PS: It's all Micha & Martin's and Stefano & Elisa's fault. They started it! :D (see their travelogs via the links on the left)